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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[Alfred's Serif Users' Forums — Advice wanted on faulty fluorescent tube fitting - ripple and turn off]]></title>
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	<updated>2022-02-01T23:05:25Z</updated>
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			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Advice wanted on faulty fluorescent tube fitting - ripple and turn off]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://punster.me/serif/viewtopic.php?pid=399#p399" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><blockquote><p>Is the value of the capacitor correct for the size/type of tube?</p></blockquote></div><p>It&#039;s the capacitor installed at the factory - decades ago. Always worked before. It&#039;s 8 microF.</p><p>But as I said, removing it has no effect.&nbsp; I cut the lead for this test, so it wasn&#039;t there.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[jackneve]]></name>
				<uri>https://punster.me/serif/profile.php?id=5</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2022-02-01T23:05:25Z</updated>
			<id>https://punster.me/serif/viewtopic.php?pid=399#p399</id>
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			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Advice wanted on faulty fluorescent tube fitting - ripple and turn off]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://punster.me/serif/viewtopic.php?pid=391#p391" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Is the value of the capacitor correct for the size/type of tube?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Joe]]></name>
				<uri>https://punster.me/serif/profile.php?id=10</uri>
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			<updated>2022-02-01T18:27:26Z</updated>
			<id>https://punster.me/serif/viewtopic.php?pid=391#p391</id>
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		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Advice wanted on faulty fluorescent tube fitting - ripple and turn off]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://punster.me/serif/viewtopic.php?pid=388#p388" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I am appealing for any help or advice about the cause of ripples and turning off soon after apparently OK lighting up of a brand new T12 8foot fluorescent tube, in an older normal industrial fitting - fitting has been working for years..</p><p>After a decent interval, this thread, if not entirely appropriate for this&nbsp; forum, could be&nbsp; deleted.</p><p>Thing is, I&#039;ve never come across a fault like this.. <br />I&#039;m sure it&#039;s the choke as disconnecting the capacitor has no effect - I think it&#039;s only there to minimise power factor, and I suppose, limit interference. <br />The starter is also not responsible - it does its job of getting the tube to strike, and can be removed while running with no effect - it shouldn&#039;t be drawing any current while tube is conducting - surely?</p><p>The tube comes on, works fine for a short time - say, a few minutes.&nbsp; Then ripples start gently and then violently, and have an effect something like waves of light down the tube. They are not like the normal tube failing&nbsp; with momentary intermittent light &amp; dark bands.</p><p>I wonder if any of you engineering types have come across the sort of fault before. What should I look for if I decide to test the choke?</p><p>I am annoyed because the existing tube was acting up, and knowing how hard it is to find obsolescent T12 8&#039; tubes, I actually found a local supplier and bought two. This set me back £22 each plus vat, and then to fit one and find it was the fitting - well- you can imagine.</p><p>In the end,&nbsp; as I did have another fitting in another room, I mounted that in place of the faulty one, so there is no urgent need to do anymore. But my curiosity remains..</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[jackneve]]></name>
				<uri>https://punster.me/serif/profile.php?id=5</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2022-02-01T17:13:46Z</updated>
			<id>https://punster.me/serif/viewtopic.php?pid=388#p388</id>
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